Resumo

CARVAJAL, PAULA MARIANA. REINVENTING PAIPA CHEESE IN THE CONTEXT OF THE DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN: MATERIAL TRANSFORMATIONS, CONSTRUCTIONS OF AUTHENTICITY AND POWER RELATIONSHIPS. Maguare [online]. 2021, vol.35, n.2, pp.19-50.  Epub 09-Mar-2023. ISSN 0120-3045.  https://doi.org/10.15446/mag.v35n2.98458.

In this article I approach the reinvention of food by studying the production of Paipa cheese and the recognition of its Designation of Origin (DO). Based on field work in Paipa and Sotaquira (Colombia), where Paipa cheese is made, I analyze how the terroir of this product is produced and its effects on a local scale. To do this, I delve into two aspects: On the one hand, I explore local actors' divergent interpretations of the Designation of Origin as well as the ways that these actors encourage the reinvention of cheese based on new demands and quality expectations that only few of them can meet. On the other hand, I focus on the power relations that cross the process of granting the Designation of Origin label to Paipa cheese. I purport that this process is a scenario full of unfinished discussions that differentially and unevenly distributes its benefits.

Palavras-chave : artisanal production; denomination of origin; food reinvention; intangible heritage; Paipa cheese; terroir.

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